This is a picture of the car with no motor in it: nomotor1.jpg
Here is another one:nomotor2.jpg Here is one of my Pete Jackson Timing Gear Drive set (I have since discontinued
using). I know many say this will be a problem with the knock sensor, but that is
something I will cross when I get there. It is a "Silent Gear drive" after
all which shouldn't be much worse than the extreme duty sets anyway. Here is a picture of
the Rods and Pistons I am using. Both are forged.
Pistons are JE/SRP and the rods are Eagle ESP 6". Click here for a picture of the assembled lower-end. Notice the 4 bolt splayed
conversion and you can kind of see the gear drive up front. An example of some clearancing needed for the longer stroke. Had this
not been done the rod caps or bolts would have smacked the block in this area. They
had to do this on each side for every set of rods. This next picture is of the top
side of the motor. You can see the Head Studs I
am using. Look closely you can also see the freeze plugs I pressed into the timing
cover to seal off the optispark and waterpump drive shaft holes.
This is a picture of my Hooker Long Tube Headers that I had coated at a local place. Click here for the other one. Interested in what the SLP pressure plate looks like? How about the Modern Muscle Car Long tube header y-pipe.
This is a picture of the home clearancing of the timing cover I had to do to work with the PJ gear drive since the idler gears stick out a little. This is a picture of my intake that I painted. Not to hard. Just degreased it as best I could then taped off all the holes and painted it about 10 coats. I used Plastikote engine enamel.
Here is a picture of my 396 CI motor pretty much
assembled on the stand. Here is another one of it assembled.
This one is of the CSI Electric water pump I am
using. Here is a picture of the electromotive SDI
setup I have (I have since sold it - winter 2001). This one may be a little better, but shows the same stuff.
The SDI has an optispark eliminator which is a little black square in the picture with 3
connectors coming out of it which is used with the crank trigger wheel and a magnetic
pickup. It also includes the Super Direct Ignition coilpacks (one for every 2
cylinders) wich allow you to also control the timing.
This is a picture of my Hotchkis STB. Here is a set of Universal Magnecor HEI wires to route with my Electromotive SDI system.
Here is a picture of the fluidampr dampner for an LT1. You cannot really see it, but the pulley and hub are one unit unlike the stocker.
Finally, here are 2 pictures of "The Wood Shop's" f-body corner sub box that I am replacing my Bazooka Tube with. In the car and a top view on the ground.
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